Sunrise Quesadillas

 2 thick slices bacon, halved

1 large egg

1-1/4 cups grated Cheddar or Jack, about 5 ounces

Vegetable oil for pan-frying

4 flour tortillas, about 5 inches across

1 cup favorite salsa

1 cup hash browns

Diced tomato or avocado, optional

Yield: 2 to 4 servings

Fry the bacon in a medium skillet over medium heat until crisp. Drain, reserving drippings. Whisk the egg and maybe a few grains of salt just to blend. Pour into the skillet with bacon drippings and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook, stirring often with a spatula, until the egg has formed curds but still looks a little runny, about 3 minutes. Stir about 2 tablespoons of the cheese into the egg. Remove from heat and stir through one or two times more.

If you have a large griddle, you'll be able to cook the two quesadillas simultaneously. If not, cook in a heavy skillet one at a time, placing the first in a low oven to keep warm.

On a griddle or in the skillet, warm a thin film of vegetable oil over medium heat. Place 2 tortillas side by side on the griddle and cover each with about 1/4 cup of the cheese. Cook briefly until cheese begins to melt and tortilla turns golden and lightly crisp, 2 to 3 minutes. Working quickly, spoon half of the egg onto each tortilla, covering the cheese, followed by about 2 tablespoons of the chile sauce, 2 bacon halves (crisp) and the cooked hash browns, if you wish. Spoon on more salsa or chile sauce and another 1/4 cup cheese. Top with another tortilla, then flip quickly and carefully with a broad spatula. If you lose a little of the filling when turning, simply scoop it back into place.

Cook the quesadilla's second side until golden and crisp and the remaining cheese is melted.

Transfer to a cutting board when all are cooked and slice each into quarters. Reassemble on each plate, with remaining cheese scattered on top. If you wish, scatter tomato or avocado over the cheese and serve with the remaining salsa on the side. Eat by hand like a sandwich.

- From "A Real American Breakfast"