Grilled Chicken with Sweet-and-Sour Barbecue Sauce

1 t. vegetable oil

1 small (about 4 ounces) onion, finely chopped

1/2 C. apricot preserves

1-1/2 C. ketchup

1/4 C. apple cider vinegar

1 T. Worcestershire sauce

Hot red pepper sauce, such as Tabasco, to taste

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

3/4 C. wood chips

2-1/2 to 3 lbs. bone-in, skin-on chicken parts

In a 2-quart pot over medium heat, heat the oil. Add the onion, reduce the heat to low and cook until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the preserves, ketchup, vinegar, Worcestershire and hot sauces and salt and pepper to taste and stir to combine. Increase the heat to medium and bring to a boil.

Immediately reduce the heat to medium-low or low; the sauce should barely simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes. Use immediately or set aside to cool, cover and refrigerate until needed.

Soak the wood chips in water for at least 30 minutes. Have ready 6 large squares of aluminum foil.

Prepare the grill for indirect cooking. If it's a charcoal grill, build the fire on 1 side (the chicken will go over a drip pan on the other side of the grill). If it's a gas grill, turn on all the burners to preheat then turn off 1 burner just before you put the chicken over that spot. If your grill has a thermometer, try to keep the heat between 350 and 400 degrees.

Divide the drained chips among the foil squares and wrap the chips to form a packet. Using a knife, make several small slashes in each packet. When the grill is ready, place 2 of the wood chip packets on the coals or over the hottest part of the grill.

Season the chicken with salt and pepper to taste. Arrange the chicken pieces in a single layer on the grill rack away from the heat, making sure there is no fire directly below the chicken. (The chicken may need to be cooked in 2 batches.) Cover the grill and cook, keeping an eye on the grill. It may be necessary to adjust the heat by adding coals to the fire to maintain an even cooking temperature of 350 to 400 degrees. You may also need to add new wood chip packets if the old ones stop smoking.

Grill the chicken, without turning, for 25 minutes. Baste the chicken, turning to coat both sides, with about 3/4 cup of the sauce. Grill until the chicken is cooked through, about 15 minutes longer, basting with the sauce 1 more time.

Return the remaining sauce to medium heat and heat until warmed through.

Remove from the heat; cover to keep warm.

Serve the chicken immediately and pass the sauce on the side.

Serves 4 to 6.