Grilled Double Thick Tuna, East Coast Grill Style

4 very fresh tuna steaks, each about 3 inches thick, 8 oz. each

4 T. roasted sesame oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste (or substitute black pepper)

3/4 C. pickled ginger (available at Asian markets)

6 T. wasabi powder (available at Asian markets), mixed with water to the consistency of wet sand

3/4 C. soy sauce

Build a multilevel fire on the grill: Leave 1/4 of the bottom free of coals, and bank the coals in the remaining 3/4 of the grill so that they are three times as high on one side as on the other. When all the coals are ignited and the temperature is hot, you're ready to cook.

Brush the tuna steaks lightly with the sesame oil and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Put the steaks on the grill and cook until they form a dark brown, crispy crust on both sides, about 4-5 minutes per side.

Turn the steaks on their edges and cook on each side for about 2 minutes, trying to achieve the same brown, crispy crust. Remove the steaks from the grill and serve along with the pickled ginger, wasabi and soy sauce. Makes 4 servings.

From ``Let the Flames Begin,'' by Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby