Scallop Dumpling with Garlic Chives

2 T. vegetable oil

1/2 lb. garlic chives, trimmed and cut into 10-inch pieces, or 6 oz. ordinary chives

1 scallion, cut into several pieces

1 t. minced fresh ginger

1/2 lb. sea scallops

1 T. plum wine or sherry

2 t. soy sauce

2 t. cornstarch

1 t. Asian sesame oil

1/2 t. salt

1/2 t. freshly ground pepper

36 thin wonton skins

Orange Sweet-and-Sour Sauce and Spicy Fish Sauce (recipes on side)

Heat 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil in a skillet. Add the garlic chives and saute over moderately high heat, stirring often, until wilted. Transfer to a bowl to cool.

In a food processor, combine the scallion and ginger and pulse until the scallion is finely chopped. Add the scallops, plum wine, soy sauce, cornstarch, sesame oil, salt and pepper. Pulse until the scallops are finely chopped. Add the garlic chives and pulse just until evenly incorporated but not smooth.

If using square wonton skins, spread them out on a work surface and cut them with a 3 1/2-inch round biscuit cutter. Keep all but 12 skins covered with a towel while you proceed. Spoon a heaping teaspoon of the filling into the center of each wonton skin. Draw the edges up and pleat evenly. Pinch the pleated edge to form a little bun. Repeat with the remaining wonton skins and filling.

Pour the remaining 1 tablespoon vegetable oil onto a small plate and dip the bottom of each dumpling in the oil. Arrange the dumplings without touching in a bamboo steamer basket. Cover and steam over boiling water for 10 minutes. (Make ahead: The cooked dumplings can be refrigerated for 1 day ahead of frozen for up to 2 weeks. Reheat in a steamer or a microwave oven.) Serve warm with the dipping sauces.