FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Mark R. Vogel
Epicure1@optonline.net
The Fruit of the Conquistador
In 1519 Spanish Conquistador Hernan Cortes, (a.k.a., Hernando
Cortez), and his entourage were the first Europeans to enter Tenochtitlan, the
capital of the Aztec Empire and forerunner to modern day Mexico City. Originally
welcomed as a god by Montezuma, the leader of the Aztecs, Cortes eventually
conquered and destroyed much of the city, thus claiming the territory for Spain.
Thousands were killed in the pursuit of European imperialism. But Cortes’
conquests bore other fruit than territorial gain. Cortes is credited with
introducing the avocado to Europe, a fruit he found in abundance in and around
Mexico.
The avocado originated somewhere in the tropics of either
Central or South America. The exact location is in dispute. Archeological
evidence suggests it has been cultivated for 7,000-8,000 years. Its name comes
from the Nahuatl word for testicle, supposedly because of the avocado’s shape.
The Nahua were the Indians of central Mexico, of which the Aztecs were one
subgroup. Due to the avocado’s genital reference, it naturally became thought of
as an aphrodisiac.
Avocados are a rather unique fruit, having a rich, buttery
texture. There are many varieties but the two most common are the Fuerte and the
Hass. The Fuerte is larger, green colored and smooth skinned. The preferred Hass
is smaller, dark green to black, and pebbly skinned. The Hass is the only
variety available year round. California produces over 90% of the world’s
avocados and is a leading consumer as well.
Avocados ripen best off the tree. Unless they’ve been
languishing in the produce section, most of the avocados you’ll encounter in the
supermarket are hard and unripe. They will need at least a few days to ripen, a
process that can be accelerated by keeping them in a paper bag. When they yield
to gentle pressure but are not mushy they are at the peak of ripeness. Choose
avocados that are heavy for their size and unblemished.
To harvest an avocado take a large chef’s knife and cut down
the center from pole to pole until you hit the pit. Slice your way around its
circumference using the pit as your guide. Then simply twist the two halves to
separate them. Now hold the half containing the pit in your one hand and with a
swift yet carefully aimed swing of the knife, strike the pit with the blade dead
center. Twist the knife and remove the pit.
Avocados contain vitamins C and E, a range of B vitamins, and
numerous minerals. And while they have a notable fat content, (an eight ounce
avocado has about 30 grams of fat), most of it is the healthy monosaturated fat
as is found in olive oil.
Avocados are at their best when used raw or very lightly
cooked. Extended cooking can reduce their flavor and/or make them bitter.
Freshly cut avocados will discolor when exposed to air so either use them
immediately or douse them with citrus juice to retain the color. Employ avocados
in salads, soups, condiments, spreads and other preparations. I like simply
taking freshly chopped and salted avocado and eating it with my steak. And of
course, how could we not mention guacamole, a dish that has its roots in the
Aztec’s culinary repertoire.
GUACAMOLE
1 small onion, chopped
3 jalapenos or 2 serrano chiles, chopped
Chopped cilantro to taste
Juice of one lime
Salt to taste
2 ripe Hass avocados
Guacamole is a snap. Chop the onion, peppers and cilantro, add the remaining
ingredients and mash with a potato masher to break down the avocado and mix
everything. Serve immediately or cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Make
sure the plastic is actually touching the guacamole to inhibit discoloration.
Usually guacamole is served with large chunks of avocado as
opposed to my procedure of thoroughly mashing it. Prepare it to suit your own
taste but consider the following. When you bite into a large chunk of avocado
you are tasting nothing but the avocado. What’s the point then of making
guacamole? Unadulterated pieces of avocado are a little on the bland side.
Mashing the avocado uniformly blends it with all of the other ingredients. Every
bite is a harmonious integration of all the flavor elements. Finally, adjust the
types and/or amounts of hot peppers to your preferred heat level. Although a
sacrilege, substitute bell pepper for zero kick.
HABANERO-AVOCADO SOUP
This recipe comes from the book “Hot & Spicy Latin Dishes” by Dave DeWitt et
al., of Chile Pepper Magazine.
2 large ripe avocados, peeled and pitted
1 habanero chile, seeds and stems removed, minced
4 cups chicken stock
1 cup heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
1 tablespoon cilantro, finely chopped
6 tortillas, quartered and fried in oil until crisp
Mash the avocados and put them through a sieve. Place them in a heated soup
tureen. Heat the habanero and chicken stock with the cream in a saucepan and
stir well. Pour the stock into the avocados, stirring to mix, or beat lightly
with a whisk. Season to taste with salt and pepper and sprinkle with cilantro.
Serve immediately with the tortillas.
