FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Mark R. Vogel
Epicure1@optonline.net
Cilantro
Cilantro is one of those foods that people either love or
hate. Interestingly, the regions of the world where it is most cherished are not
where it originated. Cilantro’s genesis can be traced to the Mediterranean. The
Romans spread it to Asia while the Spanish conquistadors introduced it to Mexico
and Peru. Subsequently, cilantro is a primary herb in Indian, Asian, and Latin
American cuisines while Europeans and Americans have given it a lukewarm
reception. Nevertheless it is touted as the world’s most popular herb.
Cilantro’s nomenclature is somewhat confusing. The entire
plant and the seeds are properly named coriander, while the leaves alone are
cilantro. Colloquially, the entire plant and leaves are referred to as cilantro
and only the seeds as coriander. Cilantro is also referred to as Chinese
parsley.
Cilantro has been used for thousands of years. Coriander
seeds have been found in ancient Egyptian tombs. The Chinese believed it to be
an aphrodisiac and to produce immortality. Coriander, like many foods throughout
the ages, has also been credited with a number of medicinal properties.
Cilantro is available year round. It is a delicate herb that
fades quickly. Most supermarkets carry it but finding fresh, non-wilted
specimens is the challenge. Choose bunches with bright green leaves and a
fragrant aroma. Store it in a plastic bag or place the roots in a container of
water with the tops covered by plastic wrap or a bag. Either way, in a few days
it will be a shadow of it’s original self. Coriander seeds and/or ground
coriander can be found in the spice aisle of most supermarkets. As with all
spices it is best to purchase the seeds whole and grind them yourself for the
best flavor. Cilantro stems are also edible and provide a bright crunchiness to
your dish. Add cilantro leaves toward the end of cooking or just before serving.
Its fragile flavor is easily dissipated by heat.
Americans are most familiar with cilantro in their salsa and
guacamole. However, cilantro and coriander are used all over the world in
countless preparations. It is used with meat, chicken, fish, sauces, marinades,
chutneys, you name it. Coriander is even used in baking.
Try cilantro in your crabcakes or shrimp salad. Or chop
cilantro and garlic, add a little oil and spread this mixture on your meat, fowl
or fish. Skip the oil to save calories. For a creamy low fat dressing with
diverse uses, mix equal parts of buttermilk and plain yogurt with salt, pepper,
and a good amount of chopped cilantro. (Remember, buttermilk is made from low
fat milk). Ground coriander is a great addition to dry rubs. It pairs
particularly well with cumin, curry, paprika, garlic, and chile powder.
If you’re more decadently inclined, make cilantro oil or
mayonnaise. There are two ways to make the oil. In the first, add two cups of
cilantro to a jar with an airtight lid. Warm up a bland oil like canola,
sunflower, safflower, or a light olive oil. Add it to the jar, seal the lid, and
wait two weeks. Leave the cilantro whole if you wish to remove it or chop it and
leave it in the oil. A quicker method is to blanch 2 cups of cilantro in boiling
water for five seconds and then submerge in ice water. Squeeze out the water and
puree it in a blender with one cup of oil. Strain it through cheesecloth if you
wish to remove the solids. You can sprinkle various dishes with the oil or use
it for cooking. For cilantro mayonnaise, simply chop some cilantro, garlic, and
an optional jalapeño pepper and then mix with mayo, lemon juice, salt and
pepper.
PORK CHOPS WITH POBLANO-CILANTRO SAUCE
6 poblano peppers, roasted, skins & seeds removed
¼ cup cilantro
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon coriander
1 tablespoon white vinegar
½ cup of water
Cayenne powder, salt, and pepper to taste
4 pork chops
olive oil, as needed
onion, 8 ounces, chopped
6 cloves garlic, chopped
1) Puree two of the roasted poblano peppers, cilantro, cumin, coriander,
vinegar, water, salt and pepper in a blender. Add additional water if necessary.
2) Brush the chops with olive oil and season with salt,
pepper, and cayenne powder.
3) Sear the chops on each side in the oil. Do not fully cook
the chops. Remove them as soon as each side is seared and set aside.
4) Roughly chop the remaining poblano peppers and sauté with
the onion in the same pan you sautéed the chops until the onions start to
soften. Add extra oil if necessary.
5) Add garlic and sauté one minute more.
6) Return the chops to the pan and add the sauce. Simmer
until the chops are cooked. About 3-5 minutes for half inch chops.
