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Mark Vogel received his doctorate in clinical
psychology from Yeshiva University and his culinary arts degree from the
Institute of Culinary Education, both in New York City. Although he still
practices psychology, his deepest passion remains cooking at an
Italian/Mediterranean restaurant in NJ and writing about food and wine. His
column "Food For Thought" is published in a number of NJ and Philadelphia
newspapers and food related websites.
Mark R. Vogel
Epicure1@optonline.net
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FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Mark R. Vogel
Epicure1@optonline.net
Don’t Be Chicken
Tonight I’m roasting a chicken. I will fill the cavity with
chopped onion, lemon, garlic, parsley, rosemary, salt and pepper. I will then
truss it, (this allows the entire bird to roast evenly. If the legs are loose
they can burn by the time the internal section is properly cooked). Next I will
brush it with olive oil and sprinkle it with rosemary, salt and pepper. Then I
will place it in the roasting pan on top of a bed of chopped carrots and celery.
Finally, I will cook it at 375 degrees until the deepest part of the thigh meat
reaches a temperature of 165 degrees. (The thigh takes the longest to cook). I
will not rely on the color of the juices to determine doneness. Most chickens
are slaughtered young before sufficient calcium has built up in their bones.
Thus, blood can seep from the bones creating an illusion that it is undercooked.
Temperature is the only reliable way to know.
As I thought about my menu tonight I found my mind pondering the array of
reactions individuals have to this wonderful fowl. I think about things like
that. That’s why I’m a food writer.
There are a variety of “issues” that people have with chicken. Distinct
dichotomies exist in its consumption. Some people will eat the dark meat,
other’s will not. Likewise for the skin. The dark meat is “dark” because the leg
and wing muscles are used more. Thus, they require more oxygen. Myoglobin is an
iron containing protein that transfers oxygen from the blood to the muscles and
in turn alters their color. The dark meat is also higher in intramuscular fat
which is why it is juicer than the dry, dull breast. (Did you see that? I just
slipped in one of my own prejudices).
Many people consider chicken a “dirty” bird. I’m not exactly sure what this
means. A woman I know washes her chicken like a surgeon sterilizing her
pre-operative hands. Her husband, afflicted by the same phobia, will not eat any
chicken unless she has prepared it.
The truth is, every land animal we consume lives and dies in slop. Trust me when
I tell you that your average pig, cow, or bird is not washing its hooves or
feathers with anti-bacterial soap or practicing good hygiene when Mother Nature
calls.
The point is, it doesn’t matter. Cooking food to the proper temperature is what
destroys bacteria. You can wash your chicken till the cows come home, (with
dirty hooves), and you’re still not protected from the real threat. Heat kills
salmonella, not soap and water. I even heard about one woman who scrubbed her
fowl with Brillo, causing the meat of course to become infiltrated with strands
of steel wool. This is almost as crazy as the man I know who will not eat
chicken because he’s afraid he will take on the chicken’s attributes. How the
chicken became the object of such paranoia I will never know.
This is not to say that there are no risks with chicken. Rather, it is a matter
of applying the appropriate techniques to prevent them. First, check the date on
the chicken before you buy it. Freeze it unless you’re using it within 24 hours.
Do not thaw your chicken at room temperature. Use the microwave, the
refrigerator, or place it in a bag in cold water. Change the water every half
hour to keep it cold. I do rinse my chicken first to remove any grit or other
UFO’s (unidentified foreign objects) that may be lurking on its surface from
handling and packaging.
You must also be leery of cross contamination with all raw meat but especially
chicken. Cross contamination is when a raw item touches one surface to which
other food items or utensils come in contact. If you cut your raw chicken into
pieces, you cannot use that knife or cutting board for anything else. You must
wash it before reusing it. But wait a minute, isn’t that a contradiction? First
I tell you washing your chicken does not kill the bacteria but then I advise you
to wash the implements that touched it. That’s because most of the salmonella in
the chicken is internally imbedded in its flesh, safe from the running water.
But any bacteria transferred to your knife or cutting board can be washed off
the surface. The one exception is if your chicken has been in contact with a
wood cutting board for a period of time. Wood is porous after all. After washing
the board, disinfect it with a bleach or iodine solution. Or, you can avoid the
entire ordeal by only cutting chicken on a plastic cutting board. The final
safeguard is cooking it to an internal temperature of 165 degrees. You can even
go as high as 170 in the thigh. |
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