FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Mark R. Vogel
Epicure1@optonline.net
Hot & Steamy
Contrary to popular belief, Robert Fulton did not invent the
steamship. Other men had built such vessels before him. What he did invent was
the first commercially successful steamship and that eternally linked his name
with its creation. Ironically, the wealth that served to unjustly credit him
with the steamship’s invention, largely evaporated in court battles over the
piracy of his patents and challenges to his state granted monopoly. In fact,
after testifying at a legal hearing in 1815 he suddenly became ill and died. I
guess you could say he ran out of….......... oh never mind.
Steam has historically been employed primarily for driving
turbines which in turn produce electricity. But it is steam’s culinary
applications that will be the focus of the present discussion. Steam is water
vapor. When water is heated, eventually it reaches a temperature where its
molecules break free of the liquid mass, overcome the force of atmospheric
pressure, and evaporate into the air. At normal atmospheric pressure it occurs
at 212 degrees Fahrenheit. However, as air pressure decreases, so does the
temperature needed to achieve a boil. This is because with less air bearing down
on the surface of the water, less energy is required for the water molecules to
overcome the atmospheric force.
Steaming is a wet cooking method whereby heat is transferred
to the food via conduction, (from direct contact with the water vapor), and
convection, (from the upward motion of the water vapor). Steaming is a highly
effective mode of transferring energy yet gentle at the same time. Thus, it is
ideal for more delicate meats and vegetables which would be damaged by the
greater agitation and disruptive force of boiling or simmering water. Moreover,
steaming doesn’t leach away nutrients like immersion methods do since the food
is not surrounded by roiling liquid. Steaming is also the cooking method of
choice for dieters everywhere since there is no fat employed whatsoever.
Steaming and “health food” are practically synonymous.
As for the hardware, there are a number of options. First up is the classic
bamboo steamer, traditionally used to make a plethora of Chinese goodies. They
can be stacked on top of each other thus allowing the simultaneous steaming of
multiple items. Then there’s the folding steamer insert, designed to conform to
the diameter of any pot within its particular range. Of course there’s the
non-folding steamer insert. This is basically a sauce pan with holes in the
bottom. It sits snugly on top of another saucepan which holds the steaming
liquid. There’s a specialized fish steamer which is elongated to conveniently
hold an entire fish. And for those wishing to multi-task and save a few bucks,
you can always place a small metal colander inside a larger pot of simmering
fluid.
Streaming is pretty straightforward. Bring the water to a
gentle boil and place the food in the steamer and cover. Just make sure the food
is not in direct contact with the liquid water. If you’re steaming something
that takes an extended amount of time, you may need to add a little hot water
during the process to compensate for evaporation.
Most vegetables can be steamed in five minutes or less. Do
not exceed seven or your green vegetables will start to lose their vibrant hues.
Thin fish fillets will take three to five minutes, six to eight for a one inch
thick piece. Never cook fish until it is completely flaking. That’s overdone. If
it’s thick enough you can use a thermometer and aim for 135-140 degrees. When it
turns translucent and just starts to flake, you’re in the zone. Clams and
mussels are steamed until they open. A one pound lobster will take about ten
minutes while a two-pounder will need closer to eighteen. Chicken breasts,
depending on size require ten to fifteen minutes.
Basic steaming is obviously performed with water. But why not
use a flavored liquid and impart additional flavor to the food? Court-bouillon
is a broth made from water, wine, vinegar and/or citrus juice, aromatics and
herbs. Traditionally it is employed for poaching but you can use it as a
steaming liquid as well. Moreover, when the item is done steaming you can
utilize what’s left of the Court-bouillon as a sauce. For more intensity, boil
some of it down for a richer sauce.
COURT-BOUILLON
2 cups water
6 oz. white wine
Juice of one lemon
1 onion, chopped
1 stick celery, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon salt
2 bay leaves
Fresh thyme
Fresh parsley
Bring all of the ingredients to a boil; simmer for eight- to ten minutes and
strain. You can use the court-bouillon as poaching or steaming liquid for a wide
variety of seafood, vegetables or chicken.
STEAMED TILAPIA FILLETS
Court-bouillon from above recipe
1 lb. tilapia fillets
Lemon juice as needed
Salt and pepper to taste
Paprika to taste
Couple sprigs of thyme and/or parsley
Bring the court-bouillon to a boil. While it’s heating sprinkle the fish with
some lemon juice and then salt, pepper and paprika. Place the fish in the
steamer, add the herbs on top, cover, and steam three to five minutes or until
done. Spoon some of the remaining court-bouillon over the fish as a sauce. If
you have room in the same pan, are using stackable steamers, or in another
steamer, place some broccoli sprinkled with lemon, lemon-pepper seasoning, and
salt for a tasty no-fat side dish.
