FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Mark R. Vogel
Epicure1@optonline.net
Let Them Eat Cake
Marie Antoinette, the doomed queen of King Louis XVI, was
viciously maligned throughout her reign. The victim of countless rumors, charges
of adultery, and other unfounded allegations, her Austrian heritage thwarted her
ingratiation with the French people. She never uttered the infamous phrase “Let
them eat cake”, in response to protests that the poor were starving, but it
didn’t matter. She was convicted of treason and like her husband, was executed
via the guillotine. For the revolutionaries, it was the icing on the cake.
There are many types of cakes and a variety of methods for
creating them. Cakes can be generally divided into two categories: foam cakes
and shortened or butter cakes. Foam cakes differ from shortened cakes on a
number of dimensions. Foam cakes have a higher ratio of eggs to flour and
typically don’t rely on baking powder or baking soda for leavening. Beating air
into the eggs in a foam cake provides the lightness and volume. Angel food cake
is the quintessential example. Some foam cakes contain no fat or rely on egg
yolk as the only fat. Shortened cakes contain fat, usually butter or shortening
and regularly employ baking powder or soda.
There are a few approaches to making a shortened cake; the
creaming method, the two-stage method, and the single-stage or one bowl method.
The difference between them is primarily revealed in the texture of the final
product. If you prefer a light and airy cake, the creaming method is the way to
go.
In the creaming method, sugar is beat into the butter. This
incorporates air bubbles in the butter, (which will be inflated with carbon
dioxide from the baking powder or soda), and thus facilitates the maximization
of the cake’s volume. However, there are a number of factors to consider. The
first is the temperature of the butter. Too cold and it is difficult to work
with, too warm and it will not cream effectively. If it starts to melt, kiss
those air bubbles goodbye. Sixty-five degrees is the ideal temperature. Chill
the mixing bowl and sugar to prevent the butter from overheating during the
mixing. Second, the eggs should be at room temperature for optimal volume.
Third, be mindful of the mixing times below. It takes time to thoroughly combine
the ingredients and infuse the batter with air. Impatience means a heavier cake.
Finally, respect the juxtaposing addition of the flour and the liquid into the
batter and always start with the flour. Coating some of the flour with the fat
first will inhibit gluten formation and create a more tender cake. Do NOT put
all the flour or all the liquid in first. Either will reap havoc with the proper
assimilation of the ingredients and the development of the airy texture.
COCONUT CAKE
8 oz. (2 sticks) unsalted butter warmed to about 65 degrees.
2 ½ cups sugar, chilled in fridge, plus 1 tablespoon sugar.
4 eggs plus 3 egg yolks at room temperature
2/3 cup vegetable or canola oil
3 cups cake flour
3 ¼ teaspoons baking powder
¾ teaspoon salt
1 cup whole milk
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tsp. coconut extract
COCONUT FROSTING
1 pint chilled heavy cream
½ cup powdered sugar, sifted
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 ½ tsp. coconut extract
Flaked coconut, as needed
Preheat oven to 350. Grease, (with butter or cooking spray) three 9-inch cake
plans. Shake off excess flour. Cream the butter on medium speed with an electric
mixer for three minutes. Gradually add the 2 ½ cups of sugar and mix for four
more minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Add the eggs and
egg yolks one at a time, beating for 30 seconds between each one and then one
more minute after the addition of the last one. As with the addition of the
sugar, scrape down the bowl as needed to ensure complete incorporation of the
ingredients. Remove the bowl from the mixer and mix in the oil by hand. (The oil
will impart the cake with an exquisite moistness).
Combine the flour, baking powder and salt and sift onto
parchment or wax paper.
Stir one teaspoon of vanilla extract and the one teaspoon of
coconut extract into the milk. With a rubber spatula fold, don’t stir, half of
the flour mixture into the butter and sugar, then half the milk mixture, then
the remaining flour mixture, and then the remaining milk mixture.
Divide the mixture evenly into the three 9-inch cake pans and
bake until a toothpick inserted into the cake comes out clean. This will take
about 30 minutes, give or take, depending on your oven, your cake pans, your
karma, and a plethora of other scientific factors. Cool the cakes on wire racks.
Bring the one tablespoon sugar and a half cup of water to a
boil and simmer until sugar is completely dissolved. Spoon the syrup over the
three cake layers.
To make the frosting, place the heavy cream and extracts in
an electric mixer. The cream and mixing bowl should be chilled. When the cream
just starts to coagulate, gradually add the sugar and beat until medium peaks
form. Spread some of the frosting over two of the cake layers and sprinkle with
flaked coconut. Stack these two layers and top with uncoated layer. Spread
frosting over top of third layer and sides of cake and sprinkle with flaked
coconut. Cover the cake and chill in fridge.
