FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Mark R. Vogel
Epicure1@optonline.net
New Orleans Classics
In 1604 the French colonized Acadia, the region surrounding
present day Nova Scotia. Disputes with Great Britain over the sovereignty of the
territory quickly arose. Over the next two centuries control of Acadia shifted
between the French and the British, highlighted by interminable armed conflicts,
political haggling, and treaties. Finally in 1785 the British had the upper hand
and forced the Acadians from their homeland. The Acadians then migrated to
Louisiana where successive translations of their name produced the term “Cajun.”
Cajun cooking, a hearty and rustic mixture of French and southern US influences,
relied heavily on pork fat and spices. Creole, the other major New Orleans
culinary force, was a fusion of French, Spanish, Caribbean and African cuisines.
It was differentiated by a greater use of butter, cream, and tomatoes, and was
considered more refined.
New Orleans is known for transforming legendary dishes into
newfound classics. Bouillabaisse, the famous fish stew from the Provence region
of France, was a forerunner to gumbo, a Creole favorite. Jambalaya, the Cajun
version of paella, is a mixture of any number of meats, such as chicken,
sausage, shellfish, duck, ham, etc., with rice, vegetables and seasonings.
Creole or red jambalaya includes tomatoes while the Cajun style does not. Either
way, it is a spicy and robust dish that epitomizes the soul of New Orleans.
Here’s my recipe for Cajun style jambalaya:
1 lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs
Olive oil as needed
12 oz. andouille or chorizo sausage, cut into medium dice
1 green bell pepper, chopped
2 jalapeno peppers, chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
1 batch scallions, chopped
3 celery ribs, chopped
6 cloves garlic, chopped
6 cups chicken broth
3 cups long grain rice
2 tablespoons paprika
½ teaspoon onion powder
½ teaspoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon dried basil
½ teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
½ teaspoon black pepper
½ teaspoon celery salt
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon salt
Trim the fat from the chicken thighs and then cut them into quarters. Season
them with salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper. Heat up a large pot, add olive oil,
and brown the chicken on each side. Remove the chicken with a slotted spoon, set
aside and then brown the sausage. Remove the sausage and then sauté the peppers,
onions, and celery. Do not drain the grease between each item. Use it to sauté
the next item and add flavor to the final dish. Sauté the vegetables until,
soft. One minute before they are done add the garlic. Then add the chicken,
sausage, broth, rice and seasonings. Cover, bring to a boil, and then simmer for
15 minutes.
The skill of New Orleans’ chefs doesn’t cease at revolutionizing timeless
classics. They invent masterpieces of their own. New Orleans originals include
po boy sandwiches, muffulettas, oysters Rockefeller, beignets, and Shrimp
Creole. Here’s one story of the birth of a New Orleans classic:
Owen Edward Brennan opened the infamous Brennan’s Restaurant
in 1946 in the French Quarter of New Orleans and it remains a New Orleans icon
to this day. Members of the same family also own Commander’s Palace, an equally
notable New Orleans culinary landmark. In the 1950’s New Orleans was the major
port of entry for bananas from Central and South America. The story goes that in
1951 Mr. Brennan asked his chef Paul Blange, to create a dish featuring the
tropical fruit. Chef Blange rose to the challenge and concocted the classic
Bananas Foster. It was named for Richard Foster, a friend of Brennan and regular
patron of the restaurant. It remains the most popular dish at the restaurant to
this day. Each year Brennan’s utilizes over 35,000 pounds of bananas for the
world renowned dessert. The standard recipe is as follows, (serves four):
Two oz. butter
One cup brown sugar
Half a teaspoon of cinnamon
Two oz. banana liqueur
Four bananas, cut in half lengthwise and then in half crosswise
Two oz. dark rum
Combine the butter, sugar and cinnamon in a skillet over low heat and stir until
the sugar dissolves. Watch the heat and stir almost constantly to prevent the
mixture from burning. Add the banana liqueur. Add the bananas and cook until
they soften and start to brown. Next, add the rum and tip the pan slightly so
the flames ignite the rum. (This is known as flambéing). After the flames
subside, place four pieces of banana over vanilla ice cream and spoon some of
the sauce over them.
