FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Mark R. Vogel
Epicure1@optonline.net
Paradise by the Stovetop Light
I met the rock star Meat Loaf at an autograph signing when I
was a teenager. Back then the infamous “Bat out of Hell” album was my initial
association to the term “Meatloaf.” Almost three decades later my first thought
is now ground beef. I like to think that’s a function of my culinary calling and
not my age.
Meatloaf is one of the classic American comfort foods even
though it’s not indigenous to America. Most cultures have some form of ground
meat concoction. Throughout history man has combined ground meats with
seasonings, fruits, bread and grain products, vegetables, etc. The first
recorded recipes for meatloaf originate in the Roman Empire.
Meatloaf has always been popular for three reasons. First,
the meats employed were typically the scraps or less desirable parts of the
animal’s carcass. This meant that meatloaf was a cheap source of protein.
Second, meatloaf, like stews and soups, was an efficient way of using up
miscellaneous food items prior to spoilage. Finally, by incorporating other
ingredients, you could stretch out your limited meat supply.
Traditional American meatloaf has its roots in the 19th
century. However, it wasn’t until the 20th century that meatloaf truly made its
mark on the American culinary landscape. It owes that fame to scientific
progress. Modern technology enabled meat packers to cost effectively produce
ground meat on a large scale basis. Moreover, the use of in-home refrigeration
rose sharply at that time. Ground meat, which has a much shorter shelf life, now
had a wider window of usability.
Ground meat, as opposed to steaks and roasts, has more
surface area that can be exposed to bacterial contaminants. This is accentuated
by the processing it undergoes. A steak is basically cut from a larger piece of
the carcass, wrapped and put in the display case. Ground meat is a hodgepodge of
smaller pieces from multiple locations in the slaughter house that are then run
through a meat grinder. Thus, it has more opportunity to become infected.
Because bacteria are more likely to be present in ground
beef, it is recommended that you keep ground beef for no longer than 2 days in
the fridge, and 3-4 months in the freezer. The FDA recommends cooking ground
beef to 155 degrees and the USDA to 160 degrees, both in the well done range. I
gotta tell you, I’ve been eating medium rare ground beef all my life, (which
isn’t that short a span of time considering I met Meat Loaf at the pinnacle of
his career), and I have never gotten sick. Plenty of other people have done so
as well without disastrous results. The point is, if less-than-well-done meat
was as dangerous as the germaphobes would have us believe, we’d all be dead by
now. Obviously there’s a kernel of truth to their concerns but I believe the
fear is out of proportion to the reality. You need to decide what’s best for you
but you’ll never catch me cooking any animal flesh, (other than chicken), to 160
degrees.
There are probably more variations to meatloaf than any other
recipe in the world. Some recipes call for just beef while others use a
combination of beef, pork, and veal. You can use regular ground beef, (which is
a myriad of meat scraps), or ground chuck. Many prefer the latter for better
flavor. Some use breadcrumbs while others use fresh bread. Many employ tomatoes,
sweet glazes, and much to my chagrin, ketchup. Yuk! Two items that most recipes
have in common are bread and eggs. The bread serves to extend the meatloaf and
with the egg facilitates the binding of the loaf. Eggs also add some
unctuousness.
I think meatloaf should be meaty, rich, and moist. With those
parameters in mind I present you:
MARK’S MEATLOAF
1 ¾ lbs. 90% lean ground beef
2 eggs
2 oz. olive oil plus extra for cooking
6 oz. beef stock plus extra for drizzling
½ cup grated Parmesan or Romano cheese
½ cup plain bread crumbs
A hefty handful of chopped fresh parsley
Generous sprinkling of kosher salt and black pepper
Mix all of the ingredients in a bowl and place on an oiled sheet pan. Form a
uniform rectangle 1 ½ - 1 ¾ inches in height. Place into a 350 degree oven. I
remove it when the internal temperature has reached 140 degrees which is medium.
Heat the remaining beef stock to a simmer and drizzle over slices of the
meatloaf. This is one of the few times I would ever recommend this but if you
don’t have homemade beef stock I sometimes use a can of Franco American or
Campbell’s au jus. (I can hear my fellow chefs gasping in horror).
The proportion of meat to breadcrumbs in this recipe will
produce a meatier meatloaf. The eggs and olive oil provide richness and
moisture. The stock adds flavor and moisture. Should you choose to cook your
meat in excess of 140 remember, the more you cook it the drier it will be.
You’ll still have meaty and rich, but not as moist. Oh well. Two out of three
aint bad.
