FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Mark R. Vogel
Epicure1@optonline.net
The Devil’s Seeds
According to legend, parsley first germinated in the blood of
Archemorus, an ancient character in Greek mythology. Archemorus means
“forerunner of death” and hence, parsley and death became intertwined. From
there it wasn’t a great leap to also associate it with evil. Subsequently, all
sorts of superstitions arose about parsley and the devil. Virgins could not
plant parsley for fear of being impregnated by Lucifer. Because parsley seeds
took one month or more to germinate, it was posited that the seeds traveled to
the devil and back multiple times before sprouting. (It actually has to do with
parsley’s biochemistry and soil moisture). Finally, the male head of the
household could only plant parsley on Good Friday, again due to Satan’s
influences. Who would have figured that the benign king of diner-plate garnishes
could have such a sordid history?
Demonic delusions aside, parsley is a biennial plant that
originated in the Mediterranean. It was cultivated by man as early as the third
century BC. In addition to its satanic connections, parsley was the source of
numerous other superstitions as well, including an exhaustive list of medical
claims. Virtually every disease or organ in the body could supposedly be
affected by parsley. Probably the only claim that might have some merit is
parsley’s effect on bad breath, possibly due to its high concentration of
chlorophyll, which is alleged to possess odor absorbing properties.
Parsley has always been popular in European and Mediterranean
cuisine. A favorite of King Henry VIII, he relished a parsley sauce on top of
his roasted rabbit. It was introduced into the Americas in the 17th century and
eventually became the most widely used herb in the US.
Although there are many varieties, the two most common are
the curly and the flat-leaf or Italian parsley. The flat-leaf has a higher
concentration of parsley’s essential oils and thus, stronger flavor. If your
supermarket only has the curly, simply use a little extra. Both varieties are
available year round. Parsley is high in vitamins A and C and also contains a
plethora of minerals.
Parsley root is another variety of parsley prized for its
parsnip looking but carrot/celery tasting root. Use the root as you would any
root vegetable and the leaves as you would regular parsley. Choose parsley with
bright green leaves devoid of any signs of wilting. The best way to store
parsley is to stand it in a tall, narrow, covered container with enough water to
submerge the stems, and then refrigerate it. Much like keeping fresh cut flowers
in water, this method will extend the life of your parsley beyond the usual one
week limit. The less effective alternative is to wrap it in damp paper towels
and then place it in a plastic bag in the fridge. You can freeze parsley but of
course, at the cost of flavor loss. Wash your parsley thoroughly by repeatedly
submerging it in a bowl of water, swishing it around, and changing the water
until it runs clear. Then, dry it thoroughly before chopping. Dry herbs chop
better than wet ones due the lubricating effects of water. Never use dried
parsley from a jar. It doesn’t even taste close to the fresh. Sprinkle parsley
on your food after it is cooked or very near the end of cooking for the freshest
and brightest flavor.
Parsley is probably the most versatile herb on earth. It’s
hard to think of an herb-friendly food that wouldn’t pair with parsley. Parsley
is great in stews, soups, pasta dishes, rice, salad dressings, stuffings, herbed
butter, and meatloaf to name a few. It is an essential ingredient in the classic
bouquet garni, (along with thyme and bay leaves), which is used to flavor stocks
and other preparations, as well as tabbouleh salad, and chimichurri sauce. And
for a delicious new spin on its reputation as a hackneyed garnish, try fried
parsley. Simply drop your parsley in hot oil for a few seconds until crisp.
Finally a garnish you’ll want to eat. Here’s one of my favorite uses for
parsley:
LINGUINI WITH WHITE CLAM SAUCE
12 oz. linguini
Extra virgin olive oil as needed
1 small onion, chopped
Hot pepper flakes to taste
Salt and pepper to taste
4-5 cloves of garlic, chopped
1 10 oz. can Bumble Bee baby clams
1 8 oz. jar clam juice
2 dozen little neck clams, scrubbed and rinsed clean
Handful of chopped parsley
Cook the pasta until it’s slightly underdone. If it’s finished before the sauce,
toss it in a bowl with olive oil to prevent sticking. As the pasta is cooking,
sweat the onion, hot pepper flakes, salt and pepper in extra virgin olive oil
until the onions are soft. Add the garlic and cook one minute more.
Add the can of baby clams and their juice and the bottle of
clam juice. Add the little neck clams, cover, and simmer until the clams fully
open. I like to take the clams out as they open so the early birds don’t
overcook and get tough while waiting for the stragglers. Of course any that
refuse to open should be discarded. Once all the clams have opened, add the
pasta and parsley to the sauce and heat for a minute to finish cooking the
pasta. Assess for additional salt and pepper.
Then add the whole clams and toss them with the pasta for a
little bit to warm them back up. Serve with your favorite bread for dipping in
the sauce.
