FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Mark R. Vogel
Epicure1@optonline.net
A Recipe for Success
Harry S. Truman once pronounced: “I have found the best way
to give advice to your children is to find out what they want and then advise
them to do it." The culinary corollary of this homespun wisdom would be: “The
best way to cook for people is to find out what they like to eat and then make
that.” Whenever I’m making dinner for people I’ve never cooked for before, I
perform what I call a “food inventory.” In essence, I query them as to the foods
they like and don’t like. I pay special attention to foods that some people just
naturally loathe, like anchovies or goat cheese, or have issues with, i.e., red
meat, veal, butter, salt, etc. If I wish to showcase a new recipe, I will
prepare it for the friends whose palates I already know are amenable to the
dish’s ingredients.
The purpose of this is obvious and straightforward: if an
individual dislikes a particular food, the dexterity of the chef and the quality
of the recipe is superfluous; the person will not enjoy it. Some people are in
the gray zone about certain foods. Maybe they had it once or twice and didn’t
like the way it was concocted. All they need is a top notch preparation to make
them a believer. But by and large, if someone can’t stand clams, it’s immaterial
who the chef is or how the clam sauce is made. They will remain unsatisfied.
This all seems very plain and simple. Yet how often have you
been asked by your impending hosts about your food preferences prior to being
their dinner guest? Most hosts just make one of their tried and true dishes and
hope that everyone approves. Or worse yet, they expect their guests to like it
and become miffed if they don’t. It’s this latter group that I find particularly
interesting. You need a good dose of narcissism, and a somewhat twisted
conception of reality to 1) unquestioningly expect that other’s tastes will
match yours, and 2) take it personally when they don’t. And there are plenty of
cooks out there with these ingredients in the recipe of their personality.
In any event, the average Joes of the world will judge your
cooking, not by the degree of your culinary competence, but simply by how your
dish tastes. A professional may take note of the viscosity of your sauce, your
knife skills, your plate presentation, etc, but your next door neighbor just
cares if it tastes good. The point is, making food that your guests already like
is more than half the battle.
In order to publicize the cooking classes I teach, I held a
cooking demonstration and distributed samples to the customers of a local
supermarket. The logic being, if the passers-by liked the food, they might sign
up for a class. It’s a foregone conclusion that no recipe will appeal to
everyone. Nevertheless, I needed to choose dishes that I already knew had wide
appeal. One of my offerings was my butternut squash soup which had a proven
track record. Indeed, most of the folks liked it, and some did sign up for
classes based on the strength of the soup. But no one commented on its color,
smoothness, fabrication techniques, etc., (although one food neurotic lamented
about the amount of butter). People simply responded to whether it tasted good
or not. That singular taste sensation influenced their judgment about the
worthiness of my cooking class. Amazingly, I could have crafted a more difficult
dish, one requiring greater culinary expertise, but if the taste displeased Ms.
random-customer, she would have come to an entirely different conclusion about
my culinary prowess. How vexingly ironic that a dish displaying greater talent
could cause the opposite impression, simply because the taste was discordant
with a specific person’s palate.
A woman I used to date with psychotic issues about food liked
her fish plain. No seasoning, no butter, no lemon, no sauce, no salt, no
nothing. Just take a plain fillet, throw it in the oven, and then slap it on the
plate. One chef at a renowned French restaurant I took her to actually came out
to our table to make sure he had the order right. He found it incomprehensible,
(as did I), that someone wanted a completely barren piece of fish. But my date
enjoyed it and commented on how good their cooking was. Cooking? What cooking?
Merely putting a completely unadulterated piece of fish into an oven is barely
cooking. But kooky or not, she liked it, and therefore came to favorable
conclusions about the restaurant.
So do yourself a favor. The next time you’re making dinner
for others, especially new guests, give them a call and find out their gustatory
profile. Give the people what they want. And if they still complain, offer them
another Harry Truman axiom: “If you can’t stand the heat, get out of the
kitchen.”