Chinese Chicken Noodle Soup with Spinach and Garlic Chives

3 1/2 to 4 lb. chicken

8 thin slices fresh gingerroot

1 bunch scallions, cut crosswise into thirds

10 C. water

3/4 C. Chinese rice wine or medium-dry sherry

2 oz. dried rice-stick noodles (rice vermicelli)

1/2 lb. fresh spinach, coarse stems discarded and leaves washed, drained, and chopped coarse (about 4 packed cups)

3/4 C. thinly sliced fresh garlic chives or regular fresh chives

With a cleaver or heavy chef's knife, cut the chicken into large pieces. Then cut the chicken through bones into 2-inch pieces. In a large kettle of boiling water, blanch the chicken 1 minute. In a colander drain the chicken and rinse under cold water.

With the flat side of a cleaver or knife, lightly smash the gingerroot and scallions. In the cleaned kettle bring 10 cups of water to a boil with chicken, gingerroot, scallions, rice wine or sherry, then simmer, uncovered, skimming froth occasionally, for 2 hours. Pour the broth through a colander lined with triple thickness of cheesecloth into a large heatproof bowl, reserving chicken for another use.

The broth may be made 3 days ahead, cooled completely, uncovered, and chilled, covered.

In a cleaned kettle bring the broth to a boil. Add the noodles and boil, stirring occasionally, 2 minutes. Stir in the spinach and simmer, stirring once or twice, until the spinach turns bright green and is just tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in the chives and salt and pepper to taste and simmer 1 minute.

Makes about 8 cups.